Intro to Techwear: Part 4, the Glossary

The best part about new technology is that since it looks like magic you can say just about whatever you like. So, like any good technology, when you look to buy Techwear, you’re going to run into a lot obscure terms. Words that look futuristic. Words that look fancy. Words that are definitely not words.

And lots of trademark symbols.

Look below for a glossary of the most common, basic terminology you’ll find in Techwear. It is divided into sections instead of alphabetic order for ease of navigating and understanding. Construction, terms, synthetics, natural fibers, insulation, and treatments - as well as several care guides.

If anything is linked to Wikipedia for reference, I tried to verify the sources within the Wiki, or with at least two other sources that agreed with the Wiki’s assessment. If something is a generic term or fabric, it may not have a source attached.

Note: this article updated on 2/20/14. This article has undergone changes since it was first published. Unfortunately, there is no archived page for it. However, unlike the other parts in this series, the changes were relatively minor.

Table of Contents
Construction
Terms
Synthetics
Natural Fibers
Treatments
Insulation
Care Guides

Construction↩

Triple Aught Design HQ via On and Beyond

[+] A thorough scientific breakdown and comparison of membranes.
[+] A comprehensive breakdown of membrane history, science, and competition written with a layperson in mind.
[+] A guide to hard vs. softshells with construction information.
[+] Practical considerations when selecting rainwear.

Let’s start with a an extended explainer on shell composition and construction (shorter version is in Part 2, under "Shells") since it’s the best introduction to construction. Most shells are three layer (3L) construction: Face Fabric, Membrane/Laminate, and Backer. A Face Fabric is the outermost layer that faces the world. According to Arc’Teryx, they are looking for fabrics with a plain, tight weave for durability against abrasion and to avoid yarn movement and breakage. Frayed yarns are less likely to hold a DWR, making it more likely for water to soak the fabric and inhibit breathability. The middle layer, or Membrane, is a synthetic skin with incredibly small pores – thousands per square inch. The pores allows moisture vapor from perspiration to escape, but are small enough to block water droplets from the outside. The membrane is usually treated with another coating or film to make it oil and dirt resistant, which would clog the pores and degrade performance. A Laminate is created when the face fabric is bonded to a membrane. The Backer, an inner lining fabric or treatment, is the third layer, and in shells, is usually a technical fabric that will continue vapor transfer outside the jacket. Some jackets are 2L, which excludes a backer. this article by Patagonia employee Kelly Cordes notes that some 2L’s have a hanging, non-bonded liner (usually a mesh liner), but that is uncommon. A 2.5L is like a quarter-lined blazer: either an incomplete backer, or a “protective layer of raised lines, dots, or resins to keep the WP/BR barrier off the wearer's skin and give it a dry touch.” (Source) This is done to make it very packable and compressible at the cost of durability

Durable Water Repellant (DWR) is applied to the face fabric to increase weatherproofing. DWR is applied by dip, spray, or vapor, and bonds to the fabric. It does so without completely coating the fabric, because that would fill the spaces between the weave, inhibiting breathability. Seams are usually specially closed for weatherproofing; the most common way is taped seams, which involves the use of waterproof tape. Waterproof zips are common but not always used.

Taped seams via Foursquare

The goal of a shell is to be waterproof and breathable. Breathability isn’t what you’d guess: it is a fabric’s ability to allow moisture vapor to travel through it. Until the invention of Gore-Tex, the first synthetic membrane, waterproof breathability was impossible. It is worth noting that there is no industry standard for the term “waterproof.”

Air Permeability is a fabric’s ability to allow air to travel through it. A membrane or fabric that allows almost zero air permeability is windproof. In an excellent article, Outside Online writer Mike Kessler notes that there is some disagreement about if it is possible to have a waterproof garment that is air permeable: “In theory, virtually all waterproof-breathable hard shells are windproof — meaning they’re not air permeable and that hot air thus has no way of escaping,” even if moisture vapor can. Newer shells on the market are claiming that they are waterproof and air permeable. However, “Gore’s belief… is that something cannot be windproof and meaningfully air permeable at the same time.”

The same article by Mr. Kessler brings up two excellent points. First, the average person won’t notice the difference between any of the major membranes. Second, a point driven home by both the lead designer at Arc'Teryx, and the supervisory physical scientist at U.S. Army Natick Soldier Research, Development and Engineering Center: membrane, face fabric, backing fabric, and DWR are simply elements to the completed garment, and the overall garment design is just as vital. The combination of the choices made for all of the those elements, along with cut and construction, vary so much between jackets that asking for the "best membrane" is almost too reductive of a question. It’s edifying to know what’s going on with your clothes, but don’t miss the forest for the trees.

Advanced Construction and Cut

2L, 2.5L, 3L via REI

• 2L, 2.5L, 3L
• The number of layers a shell is made of. See the Construction paragraphs above for more information.
• Anatomical Design / Cut
• A general clothing construction term that changes depending on the designer and style desired. It is any design aspect of a garment that takes the wearer’s anatomy/body shape into mind beyond basic considerations. Anatomical cut should help a garment fit better, provide greater mobility, or increase some functionality. Examples include darting at the inner arm to curve a sleeve or constructing a pant leg out of two distinct sections for thigh and calf to allow for more mobility and venting.
• Bonded / Bonding [1, 2]
• “Composed of two or more layers of the same or different fabrics held together by an adhesive.” It’s common to see a wicking fabric bonded to a water resistant or waterproof fabric. Shells are synthetic membranes bonded to face fabrics.
• Cut (either Laser Cut or Die Cut)
• Fabrics cut by laser or die for more precision. This allows for complex shapes, smaller runs, less waste, and smaller seam allowances (which reduces bulkiness). Laser cut will melt synthetics at the cut edge which eliminates frayed edges, although often creating a raised ridge.
• Darting [1]
• A universal clothing design and construction term; “folds sewn into fabric to help provide a three-dimensional shape to a garment.” For example, back darts are common in men’s dress shirts to allow the shirt to fit slimmer in the torso, while still allowing room in the chest.
• Face Fabric
• The outermost layer of fabric on a shell. See the Construction paragraphs above for more information.
• Gusset [1]
• “A triangular or rhomboid piece of fabric inserted into a seam to add breadth or reduce stress from tight-fitting clothing.” Commonly used in the armpit of shirts, and the crotch of pants (particularly for bicylists).
• Laminate
• Created when any two fabrics are glued together, commonly a face fabric to a membrane. Gore-Tex Pro is an example of a three layer (3L) laminate. Many softshells are a stretch woven face fabric glued to a fleece backer. See the Construction paragraphs above for more information.
• Membrane
• In outdoors wear and Techwear, a hardshell’s synthetic, weather-resistant layer. The membrane has thousands of pores per square inch that are small enough for water droplets to be repelled but large enough to allow moisture vapor to escape (thus waterproof and breathable). It is usually treated with a polyurethane (PU) film or coating to protect its pores from dirt and oil. See the Construction paragraphs above for more information.
• MOLLE and PALS
• Modular Lightweight Load-carrying Equipment (MOLLE) [1]
• “The term MOLLE is used not only to describe the specific system manufactured by Speciality Defense Systems, but is used interchangeably to generically describe all load bearing systems and subsystems that utilize the woven PALS webbing for modular pouch attachment (though MOLLE is proprietary to Natick Labs, most use MOLLE and PALS interchangeably).” In other words, MOLLE is a specific system modular features, which uses PALS webbing.
• Pouch Attachment Ladder System (PALS) [1]
• “[A] series of nylon strips that are stitched at consistent intervals, to create a series of rugged loops. These strips are often placed in rows all across bags and vests, to allow users to attach compatible systems at any place. Manufacturers can then custom-design pouches that are PALS compatible, and users with PALS-integrated equipment can attach those pockets in whatever fashion suits them.” [2]
• PU / Polyurethane Film [1]
• Commonly used in conjunction with a membrane to protect the membrane from dirt and oils that could clog the micropores. Depending on the company, it may or may not be considered a laminate when a PU or a PU Film is combined with a membrane.
• Seam Closure
• Taped Seams [1]
• Seams sewn shut are not watertight; popped stitches will also cause large holes allowing for leaks. To account for this, companies may use waterproof tape along the interior seams. For non-Techwear, covered seams “prevents stretching and protects against abrasion, thereby increasing durability while simultaneously ensuring a piece of clothing keeps its shape over its extended lifespan.”
• For a video of the process via Gore-Tex, go near the bottom of the page here.
• It is possible to tape your own seams, but it requires high heat for sealing. There are many tape distributors online and in-store, along with how-to instructions.
• Welded Seams [1]
• “[T]he process of joining pieces of fabrics using heat and pressure. Thermoplastic coatings, such as polyvinylchloride (PVC), polyurethane (PU), polyethylene fabric (PE) and polypropylene (PP) are used for heat sealing.” An advanced requirement for garments that need to be “water resistant, pressurized, abrasion resistant at the seam, resistant to thread decay, [and] fine appearance.” Welded seams do not need thread or seam tape. Welded fabrics must be synthetic, or bonded with a synthetic.
• Sonic / Ultrasonic / High Frequency Seam Welding [1, 2]
• A form of seam welding “For bonding synthetic textiles or filter media, the fabric passes under a horn, which directs the ultrasonic vibrations through the layers. The materials are heated up and fused together, making a finished seam or sealed edge.” “No adhesives or consumables - such as solder or thread - are needed… [it] is environmentally friendly, produces no waste, and is economical to use.”
• Shell / Hardshell / Hard Shell
• A highly weatherproof jacket. Usually reserved specifically for the stereotypical outdoors jacket that looks and feels somewhat plastic, and has some sort of waterproof membrane. It is breathable, though not as much as a softshell.
• Softshell
• A less weatherproof jacket. The definition is much looser than hard shell. A soft shell is usually any jacket that an outdoors or tech company has that is less protective for some reason. It trades that protection for breathability, comfort, freer design, and less money.

Terms↩

Professor John Frink via Digdang

• Adsorption, Diffusion, Desorption [1]
• The process by which any membrane with a polyurethane (PU) film for dirt and oil protection, such as GORE-TEX, maintains breathability. The linked article has a short summary of the process in layman’s terms – simply CTRL+F any of the terms. GORE-TEX uses this process, as it has a PU film bonded to its membrane. Newer membranes on the market advertise the fact that this process is inefficient compared to their non-PU based protections.
• Air Permeability
• The degree to which air can flow through a fabric. Wind Resistant and Windproof fabrics attempt to stymie air permeability.
• Breathability (BR)
• The degree to which moisture vapor can travel through a fabric. The goal of membranes is to be waterproof and very breathable (or at least keep you totally dry from rain and sweat).
• Hydrophilic
• Attracts water.
• Hydrophobic
• Repels water.
• Waterproof (WP), Water Resistant (WR)
• There is no industry-wide standard for what makes something waterproof.
• Wetting Out
• Most will say “when a jacket is totally soaked through.” Sectionhiker.com provides this definition: “Wet Out occurs when your rain gear stops venting perspiration because the humidity outside your jacket is higher than on the inside. During sustained rain or drizzle, your perspiration accumulates on the inside side of the your rain garments and will gradually soak your inner layers.  It doesn’t matter if your rain gear is made out of Gore-tex, eVent, Tyvek, Nylon or some other breathable membrane, all rain gear will wet out, sooner or later.”

Synthetics↩

(L-R)
Eptfe via Gore
Waterproof fabric via Ecouterre
PCM via Schoeller Textiles

[+] A thorough scientific breakdown and comparison of membranes.
[+] A comprehensive breakdown of membrane history, science, and competition written with a layperson in mind.
[+] A guide to hard vs. softshells with construction information.
[+] Practical considerations when selecting rainwear.

Terms

• ePTFE [1, 2]
• PTFE is better known as Teflon – ePTFE is expanded PTFE, and is the basis for GORE-TEX and many other membranes. Created by WL Gore & Associates, ePTFE is PTFE pulled into strands small enough that, when woven, have micropores that are too small to allow water in, but large enough to allow water vapor to escape. Gore’s discovery became Gore-Tex, the first breathable clothing membrane.
• Phase Change Materials (PCM) [1]
• A “wax” material usually placed in “microcapsules,” PCMs change state from solid to liquid state depending on the amount of heat applied to it. The claim is that PCMs absorb any excess heat from the wearer and environment, storing the heat, but not heating the wearer until necessary. When the environment cools, the liquid PCM releases its stored energy, turns back to its solid state, and balance is achieved. The manufacturer has some discretion in setting the transition temperature at which the phase change will occur. [2]
• The main reference article for this entry indicates that “PCM microcapsules can create small, transitory heating and cooling effects in garment layers when the temperature of the layers reaches the PCM transition temperature. The effect of phase change materials on the thermal comfort of protective clothing systems is likely to be highest when the wearer is frequently going through temperature transients (i.e. going back and forth between a warm and cold environment) or from time to time touching or handling cold objects. The temperature of the PCM garment layers must vary frequently for the buffering effect to continue.”
• Outlast and Schoeller are both well-known PCM producers.
• PET
• The most common form of polyester fabric. A simple diagram and explanation of how recycled PET is created can be found here.
• PU / Polyurethane Film
• Commonly used in conjunction with a membrane to protect the membrane from dirt and oils that could clog the micropores. When it is combined with a membrane, the result is a laminate. The laminate is considered just 1 layer of a 2L/2.5L/3L jacket.

Branded Fabrics

• c_change
• Schoeller product; a windproof and waterproof membrane that claims to achieve temperature regulation and breathability with the membrane’s ability to “open” when body heat and body moisture levels rise, but stay closed when it is cold because the wearer would perspire less.
• Cordura
• Primarily known for its nylon/synthetics, Cordura is a brand name often used for a myriad of its fabrics that have a reputation for durability. Cordura also produces cotton blends for ripstop, denim, twill, and jersey.
• DiAPLEX
• A solid, nylon laminated film membrane. “When the air outside is cold, the particles of DiAPLEX arrange themselves into a solid sheet, forming an insulator and preventing the transfer of thermal energy from your body to colder surroundings. As your body gets warm, such as after exercising, the fabric’s particles respond to your body’s increased thermal energy. Their kinetic energy increases, and they rearrange to create millions of tiny openings that allow excess thermal energy and moisture to escape.” [1]. It is advertised as having, “anti-condensation characteristics, heat retention, wind proofing and water repellency required in severe weather conditions; while it also has stretchability, durability and a sensitive soft touch that make it suitable for sportswear.”[2]. Its best known use in the fashion world is by Japanese fashion company Undercover.
• eVent [1, 2]
• One of the main membrane competitors to GORE-TEX. Similar to Gore, it uses a woven ePTFE, but instead of applying a protective polyurethane (PU) film, it infuses each ePTFE filament with protective synthetics. It claims that it is more breathable than membranes that use PU films or coatings for protection (e.g. GORE-TEX) because the PU completely coats the pores, creating an inefficient two-step system: the PU must absorb the moisture, then have heat push the moisture out of the membrane. eVent fabric does not coat the pores, and allows for direct venting. Some experts claim that while this is a more breathable system, it is less durable than GORE-TEX.
• eVent licenses “as an unbranded fabric—meaning that, unlike with Gore-Tex, gear makers can simply buy eVent fabric and call it what they want.” [1] Therefore, eVent allows for more interesting designs using its tech. However, this could result in substandard products.
• Gelanots
• The fabric division of Toyota Tsusho, a name often used indistinctly for many of its products. Among its products are membranes, pre-set laminate combinations, and DWRs.
• GORE-TEX
• A product so dominant that its name is used interchangeably for most waterproof jackets and technology. It was one of, if not the first breathable and waterproof fabric. Made of woven ePTFE (see above) fibers, its micropores are too small to allow water droplets in, but are large enough to allow moisture vapor to escape. The ePTFE is treated with a polyurethane film to protect the pores from dirt and oils. The result is then bonded to face fabric to create a laminate.
• Upon its inception, it became the dominant waterproof tech in outdoors wear due to its ability to keep people dry and cool longer, savvy marketing that required a GORE-TEX tag, and strict quality assurance standards. Gore is credited with improving the quality of all jackets that hit the market by setting the baseline for quality so high. But getting Gore’s approval on all products using their tech means designs tend to be less adventurous. Gore has also been accused of antitrust actions, allegedly terminating licenses if a company also used competing technology. For an easy, incredibly well-written deep dive into GORE-TEX and the antitrust lawsuits (as well as shells, waterproof tech, and competitors) read this article from Outside Online.
• H2No
• Patagonia’s proprietary membrane and laminate systems using polyurethane coating.
• For an in-depth discussion of polyurethane films vs. other membranes, see the very thorough REI guide.
• Hyvent
• The North Face’s proprietary membrane and coated systems made of polyurethane.
• For an in-depth discussion of polyurethane films vs. other membranes, see the very thorough REI guide.
• Omni-Dry
• Columbia’s proprietary membrane that claims to be more breathable than GORE-TEX and entirely waterproof.
• For an in-depth discussion of polyurethane films vs. other membranes, see the very thorough REI guide.
• Paclite [1]
• A GORE-TEX product – named for its “extremely lightweight and packable construction.” Made with 2L construction (no backer/liner) and advertised as windproof and waterproof. It is advertised heavily to very active users like bicyclists and hikers.
• Pertex
• The brand name for a range of fabrics. Pertex claims its fabric keeps the user dry inside and out by using “capillary action.” A combination of thicker woven fibers on the inner face and thinner fibers on the outer face creates a “capillary” action that wicks moisture away from the wearer and naturally pushes it through capillaries to the outside, where increased surface area of the finer outer face allows for drying. It also claims water resistance from the elements as the capillaries spread moisture across the fabric evenly. Pertex also claims it allows for a controlled amount of airflow to allow for further breathability (in Techwear, breathability means water vapor transfer, not air movement) and temperature control. This may account for its use in sleeping bags and down jackets. A Pertex product's fabric composition depends on the product.
• Neoshell [1]
• A Polartech product - A non-ePTFE, polyurethane-based membrane (unlike GORE-TEX and eVent). However, like eVent, its dirt and oil protection is infused into the fabric instead of coated or filmed on. Neoshell claims that, instead of being windproof, the air flow through the membrane aids in superior moisture vapor transfer (aka breathability) but does not make the wearer cold.
• Ripstop (unbranded fabric) [1][2]
• A "fabric woven with a double thread at regular intervals so that small tears do not spread." It is frequently a blend of nylon and cotton, but it does not require a specific fiber makeup. The nylon is usually woven in crosshatched patterns making a characteristic windowpane check effect, though modern methods of production can hide this well. Its best known use is probably the military uniforms, but it has an incredibly wide range of uses and variations.
• Schoeller
• One of the largest and most respected techwear fabric manufacturers, Schoeller is used by many companies.
• Windstopper
• A GORE-TEX product – an ePTFE membrane that Gore claims has massive amounts of breathable pores but still retain full windproofing.

Natural Fibers↩

(L-R)
Cotton under electron microscope via Science Photo Library
etaProof cotton magnified via Wikimedia.org
A Merino ram via the Weekly Times

By far the most commonly used natural fiber is cotton. Swelling Cotton is given its own category because it is used incredibly frequently under multiple trademarked names to create water resistant clothing.

A note on cotton and other natural fibers with DWR treatment on top: the issue with any basic cotton or wool jacket treated with DWR is that eventually it will wet out. At this point it will get you wet, be very heavy, lose the ability to breathe, and take a long time to dry out. This is why many people avoid jackets that are just basic cotton or denim with a DWR on top. With swelling cottons, this process takes longer, and when it does soak, you may not get wet, but it will feel damp.

• Merino Wool
• Wool from the Merino sheep that is soft, stretchy, and smooth; it is one of the most commonly used fabrics for base layers. It is advertised as moisture wicking, heat regulating, and odor resistant. One end of the fiber is will draws moisture into the fiber while the opposite end will slightly repel it. While great for wicking and very minor repellency, the negative implication is that if it is wetted out, moisture will get trapped, increasing weight and causing longer drying times, particularly if there is little to no air flow (say, trapped under a shell). It is worth noting that Merino wool will retain heat while wet unlike many other fabrics, like cotton, which will draw heat out and cause chilling. It is naturally antibacterial, thus the claims of odor resistance. Visit its Wikipedia entry for citations (I know, but the citations appear legitimate).
• REI on Wool vs. Synthetics
• Rubberized Cotton
• Any textile or material coated in a flexible, stretchable polymer. Like cotton coated in rubber. Any rubber material will be fully waterproof but completely non-breathable and very heavy.
• Waxed Cotton [1, 2]
• Cotton coated and usually fully imbued with wax for waterproofing. Parafin wax is the most common. Over time the wax coating will degrade, particularly if the item is laundered. There are many guides and forum posts documenting home waxing processes.
• Swelling Cottons
• Ventile
• Talbot Weaving manufactured; the original swelling cotton, created in World War II at the behest of Winston Churchill for the RAF. It is not laminated or coated; its properties are derived from the cotton fibers used, a “spinning and doubling” process, and a “dense oxford weave.” It is durable, breathable, windproof, water repellant, and quiet. Its natural feel, durability, quiet movement, and breathability make it superior to membranes/laminates for more active wearers. Water repellency occurs because when water makes contact, the fibers swell, closing off the holes in the weave. Unfortunately, this means that it acts something like a sponge, getting heavier as more water is absorbed. Most users dispute this “waterproof” claim, saying that while it will keep you dry for a significant amount of time, it will eventually wet out, feel cold, and take a long time to dry. Also, once soaked and swelled, breathability will be about the same as membrane/laminate. Ventile can be licensed and rebranded.
• Best use guide: here.
• History – [1, 2, 3]
• etaProof
• Stotz manufactured; Swelling cotton product with DWR treatment to increase weatherproofing and water repellency [1]. There are multiple claims online that Stotz licenses Ventile from Talbot Weaving, but I have been unable to verify that.
• Supermarine Cotton
• Outlier trademarked fabric; essentially etaProof, rebranded and trademarked for Outlier products.
  

Treatments↩

Angle of water contact due to DWR via REI

Durable Water Repellants (DWR) are the most common treatments applied to Techwear, applied only to the outer face fabric of a garment to increase water repellency. DWRs are meant to bond to the surface they are applied to, not totally coat and block the pores of a fabric or membrane. Thus, they should not reduce breathability. Almost all water repellant garments will be treated with a DWR. “Abrasion, grime and, to a lesser degree, laundering, reduce DWR performance.” Some of the DWR’s listed actually have a lifetime limit on washings. “To remain optimally effective, DWR’s must be regularly cleaned and periodically renewed using spray-on or wash-in products.” For an in-depth look at DWR’s, and source of all of the quotes here, click here.

A good DWR is still not a replacement for an effective membrane or softshell fabric. DWR treated regular fabrics, while better than no DWR, will only repel very light rain or light before fully wetting out.

• 3XDri [1]
• A Schoeller product - on the outsite, a DWR treatment to repel water; on the skin-facing side, a hydrophilic/wicking treatment. Advertised to do three things: minimize perspiration marks, simulate a cooling effect, and repel water and stains. Most likely used on a shirt or pants, it claims that the treatment will not affect the air permeability or hand/feel of the fabric it is used on.
• Lotus Effect [1]
• Natural phenomenon describing extreme water resistance and self-cleaning properties of lotus flower leaves. On regular fabrics, water droplets adhere to the naturally flat surface. On lotus leaves there are incredible amounts of papillae (protrusions), invisible to the naked eye, that reduces a water droplet’s contact area on the leaf to 0.6%; a wax substance sits on top of the structure as well. Because of the incredibly small contact area, water beads off, carrying dirt with it. Thus it is water repellant and “self cleaning.” A research paper I won’t pretend to understand can be found here.
• Nanosphere [1]
• A Schoeller product; a massive amount of “nanoparticles” that, in a finishing bath, “wrap themselves around the individual fibers” of the textile. Thus it is not a coating or a film, and claims not to effect breathability. It simulates the Lotus Effect, creating a “structured,” almost hilly surface that reduces the contact area for water, dirt, and oil. Thus, it is water repellant and self cleaning; it is claimed that if a residue from dirt or oils is left behind, it should easily be rinsed off.
• Nextec Encapsulation
• A Nextec product; A treatement that promises water repellency, windproofing, and breathability. Fibers are “encapsulated” by a polymer treatment, thus they claim it is neither laminate nor coating.
• Waxing [1, 2]
• Cotton coated and usually fully imbued with wax for waterproofing. Parafin wax is the most common. Over time the wax coating will degrade, particularly if the item is laundered. There are many guides and forum posts documenting home waxing processes.

Insulation↩

(L-R)
Down via Spyder
+J Down Blazer via Uniqlo
Primaloft via Spyder

The debate here is down vs. synthetics. Insulation materials are rated by their fill power, compressibility, softness, durability, and performance when wet. A good insulator will minimize the loss of body heat by trapping warm air from your body within the air pockets created by the insulator fibers. Fill power (1, 2), also called loft, is a rating of “fluffiness;” the higher the fill power, the more the down can create air pockets to trap heat. Compressibility is what it sounds like, and allows for smaller jackets or easier packing. Down has the best warmth to weight ratio, a fact even admitted by well-known synthetic producer PrimaLoft. Durability and softness are, again, self-explanatory – though in a surprising twist, properly cared for down feathers are known to last longer than most synthetics. Down suffers if wet, as it will clump, lose loft, and can become moldy. Down is now sometimes treated to be water repellant, though the advantage still usually goes to synthetics.

Here are some resources for choosing between down and synthetics [1, 2, 3, 4]. Common synthetic brand names you may hear are Coreloft, PrimaLoft, and Zeroloft Aerogels.

If you are trying to put together a cold weather outfit, the following advice was well-received. “[A] Merino wool base layer + insulation of choice (fleece, down) + breathable shell = good-to-go for all but the most frigid east coast city weather. If you[‘re] concerned about it, Reduce shoulder/arm bulk by choosing vests in the insulation dept. rather than sleeved mid-layers. [This] keeps your core toasty while allowing for enhanced freedom of movement and in some cases better fit of outer shells. Though frankly a shell that doesn't allow for an insulating layer underneath--fashion brand or not-- is not a shell I recommend.”

Care Guides↩

Always confer with the manufacturer of your garments for care instructions. Some membrane anufacturers will have authorized dealers to handle repairs, or will have you ship your item back to them for repair. One such repair company is Rainy Pass Repair, Inc.

Arc'Teryx Guide to Washing GORE-TEX
Arc'Teryx Veilance Care Guide
Outdoor Gear Lab Guide to Hardshells
REI Guide to DWR Care
Shelby Extreme Materials Care